В Красноярске завершились соревнования на приз памяти Абалакова (Кубок России).

Призёры в болдеринге:

МУЖЧИНЫ:
1. Евгений Башкирцев
2. Михаил Теплых
3. Василий Козлов

ЖЕНЩИНЫ:
1. Венера Черешнева
2. Яна Черешнева
3. Екатерина Королькова

Призёры в трудности:

МУЖЧИНЫ:
1. Олег Черешнев
2. Василий Козлов
3. Сергей Терентьев

ЖЕНЩИНЫ:
1. Венера Черешнева
2. Екатерина Королькова
3. Яна Черешнева

Победители в скорости:
Татьяна Руйга, Красноярск и Эдуард Исмагилов, Мелеуз

23.06
Finally we arrived at base camp! The GPS of my sat phone Thuraya indicated 4103 meters the altitude of this place. From here to the summit should be 3659 m of difference... The place is really nice and thanks to the porters we arrived here with all the equipment to stay till august and made all the attempt we need. Here there is water, we are near the wall of Batura, there is grass even still covered from snow now. We have sun from 7 a.m to 6 p.m.. Now we remained in 3 persons. Me and the Pakistan cooks Didar and the kitchenboy Karim. My climbing partner Joby Ogwyn is still in Italy but should fly to Islamabad between 3 days. His passport with Pakistan visa is coming from USA to Italy (where he lives now). Other thing I will write you tomorrow as I have a lot of free time.....

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Наконец-то мы прибыли в базовый лагерь! Навигационные приборы моего спутникового телефона Турая установили высоту 4103 метра. Отсюда до вершины должно быть 3659 м по высоте...
Место оказалось действительно хорошим, и благодаря нашим портерам нам удалось дотащить сюда все оборудование, так что мы сможем, окопавшись тут до августа, сделать все возможное при попытке восхождения. Здесь, почти рядом со стеной Батуры II, есть вода, и даже участок травы, все еще покрытый снегом. Световой день с 7:00 до 18:00. Теперь мы остались здесь втроем: я, пакистанский повар Дидар и его помощник Карим. Мой партнер по восхождению Джоби Огвин пока все еще находится в Италии, где он живет сейчас, и ждет свой паспорт с пакистанской визой, который должен прибыть в Италию из США. Джоби должен прилететь в Исламабад в течение трех дней.
Так как пока у меня много свободного времени, ждите продолжение моих новостей завтра.....

Viktor Kozlov reports: We're in Askol now, tomorrow we are going up. Now we are busy with managing the loads for the porters. The weather is so nice.

23 июня
Виктор Козлов: мы в Асколе, завтра выходим наверх. Организуем носильщиков. Погода шепчет...

Давид Грахам добавил в свою коллекцию ещё пять маршрутов с категорией 8с и выше, включая FA (первое прохождение) Voie de Petrol, 8c+, в С.Лу, Франция.
Ему также удалось замочить на онсайт 55-метровую трассу Preiz Pour Nous, 8b, в Горж дю тарн.

По информации: http://www.8a.nu/

Московский школьник Арман Тер-Минасян одержал победу в Европейском юношеском Кубке по скалолазанию в возрастной категории 12-13 лет. Фестиваль под названием Rock Junior проходил в Италии, в Арко.

По информации: http://www.rockmaster.com/

22.06
How big is it!!!! This is the first sentences I said when I saw Batura II and the Batura group!! As supposed the flat green place of the base camp of the German expedition of 2002 is completely covered by 50/100 cm snow. Only near the morean we found a small green place, NOT FLAT where we set the provisory camp for today. The porters worked hard to find the place to organize their camp and place for all of them below stones or protected from stone walls. Tomorrow we will cross the glacier and set the base camp where I requested, near the face. It will be the "Italian base camp".....

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Какая же она огромная! Вот мои первые слова, которые я произнес после того, как увидел Батуру II в окружении всего ее массива!! Как мы и предполагали, ровная травяная поляна, где располагался базовый лагерь немецкой экспедиции в 2002 году, полностью покрыта 50-100-сантиметровым снежным покровом. Только вблизи морены нам удалось отыскать зеленое местечко, совсем не ровное, где мы установили временный лагерь на одну ночь. Портерам тоже пришлось нелегко найти подходящее место для их лагеря, расположенное ниже камней, вмещающее их всех и защищенное от каменных стен. Завтра мы пересечем ледник и установим базовый лагерь там, где я и предлагал: у подножия самой стены. Это будет "итальянский базовый лагерь".....

On June, 21, Victor Kozlov reports: "The team left Islamabad the day before yesterday and now we are in Skardu. First day we drove 12,5 hours, spent the night in Chilas and next day went 9 hours.

What a tremendous place Skardu with its beautiful valley paving the way between mountains and the river passing into the lake!
We like this place very much. And in general we like Pakistan - everywhere is clean, accurate there... We have bought equipment, now we are buying vegetables and tomorrow we head to Askole where will spend the night (already in installed tents) and then next morning we will start trekking again. Everything is OK.

21.06.2005
What a nice place here!!! I never imagined that I could find a better place around high mountain. The photo I send you, will not probably give you the real idea of the beauty but believe me.... is incredible.
Around the mountains we saw today and also yesterday, there are a lot of snow leopards and all my porters told me stories about their meeting with the animal and that in this area there are a lot. I can believe it, because here there is no tourism and also very few expeditions came here in the past.
Today we stopped here at 3332 meters and not higher as scheduled, because the porters decided to walk 2 days more (tomorrow and after tomorrow) to help me as muchas they can to arrive closer to the mountain and not at the normal base camp that is 5/6 hours distance from the wall. For me it should be a great help!
Today afternoon the porters played polo...here at 3332 meters highness. They prepared the "game tools" with some wood, they provided in the forest and the game started....

They are fantastic as the mountain here around.....
Ciao

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Что за чудесное место здесь!!!
Я даже представить себе не мог что-либо лучшее на подходах к высокой горе! Конечно, реальную красоту окружающего пейзажа сложно передать с помощью фотографий, которые я посылаю вам, но, поверьте мне, .... он поразительный!
И вчера и сегодня в горах мы видели много снежных барсов, а портеры рассказали, что встречи с ними здесь очень часты. Звучит правдоподобно, так как здесь не ступает нога туристов, а немногие экспедиции были в прошлом. Сегодня мы остановились на высоте 3332 метров, а не выше, как было запланировано, потому что портеры решили пробыть с нами на два дня больше, чтобы помочь отнести груз максимально близко к горе, а не только до базового лагеря, который расположен на расстоянии 5-6 часов подхода к стене. Для нас это реально большая помощь!
А сегодня вечером наши проводники устроили игру в поло ... прямо здесь на высоте 3332 метра. Древесину они подобрали заранее, еще когда мы шли по лесу. А здесь выстрогали "клюшки" из заготовок, и игра началась...

Все это выглядит таким фантастическим, как и горы, возвышающиеся вокруг....

Чао

Vivat! Olga Bibik is the first, Julia Abramchuk- the third!!! Yes!:)
Last Sunday brought us two good news: one of them is excellent, the second - surprising. Let's start with the first one: Olga Bibik won the second stage of Worldcup in Fiera di Primiero! "I am the first! What a mercy! I wish it would be like that at world championship :) Sandrine was very upset. I did not expect that the second place can upset somebody very much. Julia is the third. Our greetings to Moscow". The second news was a little bit unexpected. Gerome Pouvreau, successfully participated in difficulty the other day now became the first in men's bouldering.

Final Results

W O M E N
1. BIBIK Olga RUS
2. LEVET Sandrine FRA
3. ABRAMTCHOUK Ioulia RUS
4. THEROUX Corinne FRA
5. ABGRALL Emilie FRA
6. BEZHKO Olga UKR
7. BACHER Barbara AUT
8. ASHER Elizabeth USA

M E N
1. POUVREAU Gerome FRA
2. FISCHHUBER Kilian AUT
3. EARL Andrew GBR
4. DULAC Daniel FRA
5. JULIEN Stephane FRA
6. MEYER Jerome FRA
7. CROXALL Mark GBR
8. KAZBEKOV Serik UKR

Max Petrenko, Ukraine: "I had arrived in Innsbruck (Austria) the day before yesterday but yesterday I already was on rocks and on-sighted AREN 8а +, area Nassareith (near to Innsbruck) and also FORTUNA, 8b, second go".

21 июня, 2005. Сообщение Виктора Козлова: "Мы в Скарду, позавчера выехали из Исламабада.
В первый день ехали двенадцать с половиной часов. Ночевали в Чиласе. Вчера ехали девять часов.

Скарду - потрясающее место. Здесь красивая долина между гор, река, которая превращается в озеро. Нам тут очень нравится. И вообще нравится Пакистан - всюду чисто,аккуратно...
Снаряжение закупили, сейчас закупаем овощи и завтра выезжаем в Асколе. Там переночуем (уже в палатках) и утром стартуем в треккинг. У нас все отлично".

20.06
After discussing and managing the loads for the porters, finally we did start for the trekking.

We have 42 porters and some of them are the same of the German expedition of 2002.

They are very nice, friendly and strong. The valley, in which we are trekking is really wild and beautiful.

Green and brown are the 2 colours that had been around us during all the day. Now we are a 2782 meter of altitude and we can see at 1 hour distance, the Baltar glacier. Tomorrow evening we will see Batura IV and III.

For Batura I and II we have to wait one day more....

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После дискуссий и справедливого распределения груза между портерами, наконец, мы пускаемся в треккинг. У нас 42 носильщика, некоторые из них принимали участие в немецкой экспедиции на Батуру в 2002 году. Все они приятные, дружелюбные и сильные.

Долина, по которой пролегает наш путь, действительно дикая и прекрасная. Зелёный и коричневый - два преобладающих цвета. Сейчас мы находимся на высоте 2782м, через час в поле зрения должен появиться ледник Балтар. Завтра вечером мы увидим Батуру IV и III. До Батуры I и II останется один день.

Arco 19/06/2005
If Arco equals climbing, then the Rock Junior is its future. The second day of the great European Youth climbing meeting, or rather, the European Youth Climbing Days - Rock Junior, turned out be a great party. This fantastic youth climbing festival was fueled by the enthusiasm of more than 2500 participants, from young and even younger climbers to their parents, all of whom participated in two days of climbing and games. And, of course, the European Under 14 Cup, reserved for the best young European climbers who competed on the impressive and mythical Rock Master wall.

For two days the climbing Stadium was transformed for these young climbers, who came in all different shapes and sizes and spoke a myriad of different languages. 14 different nationalities were represented on the green lawn beneath the Colodri wall which, for the occasion, was transformed into a great amusement park for the young. Climbers from Italy, Austria, Luxembourg, Germany, Belgium, England, Sweden, Hungary, Czech Republic, Russia, Lithuania, Slovakia, Slovenia and the Ukraine were all united by one common passion: climbing both as a sport and a game. All, from the youngest to the oldest, released their incredible energy, and immense desire to climb.

All found their own, personal dimension. Starting with the impressively determined and able athletes who travelled here for the European Under 14 Cup, and finishing with the youngest climbers taking part in the Kid’s Rock, climbing lines which resembled nature such as crossing tree trunks, the river or the sweets climb.

The bouncy castle and slide were a particular favorite and the children literally assaulted this ascent. And many continued with the fun, crossing the River Sarca on the Tyrolean traverse and, for the smallest, drawing in the arts laboratory. Many mini climbers chose to test their physical capacities and plan their training programs under the supervision of the University of Perugia professors Paola Gigliotti and Prof. Francesco Coscia.

The second round of the European Under 14 Cup was won as follows: category A (1992/93) Arman Ter-Mynasyan from Russian and Johanna Ernst from Austria category B (1994/95) Domen Skofic and Vita Osolin from Slovenia, while category C (1996/97/98) was won by Julija Kruder from Slovenia and Markus Ladurner from Italy, the best Italian athlete together with Jessica Morandi from Arco who won the Italian trophy yesterday and European Speed.

But what really counts at the Rock Junior, more so than anything else, is taking part. And so this great open air festival came to a close with an event shared by both parents and children, the Family Rock. 50 pairs of parents and their young ones took part in this exciting relay on the speed wall. Pairs "passed the baton" at half height and, at the same time, took part in a game which has few equals in other sports and which was perhaps the most interesting aspect of these two beautiful climbing days at Arco. Two days of happiness and joy, documented also by Disney Channel, which prepared two showings of the event and the climbing.

The 4th edition of the Rock Junior was a great success therefore, thanks to the participants and the impeccable organisation. This was headed by the Associazione Rock Master di Arco, with the indispensable collaboration of the Associazione Sportiva Arco Climbing, the FASI (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana) and the help of the Guardia di Finanza, the Polizia, the Carabinieri, the SAT mountain rescue service and the mountain guides Friends of Arco, who all worked to guarantee the participant's safety. Once again their help contributed in making Arco the world's climbing capital.

Thanks also go to the institutions, the Autonomous Province of Trento, the Comune di Arco, Cassa Rurale Alto Garda, Ingarda Spa, Azienda Municipalizzata Sviluppo Arco, and the technical sponsors The North Face, La Sportiva, Cassin, Sint Roc & Ecogrips, Pareti and PlanetMountain who all made this festival for young climbers possible.

Press Office Rock Junior
Vinicio Stefanello
Tel. +39 049 8808423
Stefanello@planetmountain.com

INFORMATION:
ASSOCIAZIONE ROCK MASTER
C.P. 60 38062 ARCO TN
TEL 0464 516830
FAX 0464 517691
mail@rockjunior.info
www.rockjunior.info

Полячка Александра Таистра пролезла Nieznoњna Lekkoњж Bytu, 8b+ (c) в Маммутово. Это её третья 8b+ за последние три недели.

Источник

Макс Петренко, Украина: "Позавчера приехал в Инсбрук (Австрия), вчера уже был на скалах. Пролез 8а+ на онсайт, маршрут AREN, район Nassareith (недалеко от Инсбрука), а также маршрут FORTUNA, 8b, со второй попытки."

Больше о Максиме Петренко

17.06
Today I saw white mountains. Even with one hour delay, I flew to Gilgit today and in the clouds I saw mountains of this area, mostly Nanga Parbat. The snow it look really deep and more than usual for this season and in the few minutes of the clear sky I took some pictures to Nanga to show you. I also tried to watch in the direction of Rakaposhi and Batura but it was impossible to see because there was to cloudy sky and flew to low.
The sun in any case continue to be the principal actor of the day and it should be good to melt the heavy snow on Karakorum mountains… The news I get from here about Baltoro area is that from Urdukas to the base camp of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, the porters have to walk in the snow with the obvious difficulties.
Tomorrow should arrive in Gilgit by truck and bus all the expedition's equipment and my cook Didar and the kitchenboy. After tomorrow we should start to trek to base camp. Today I also spoke with Joby in Italy (his new home) and he confirmed me that his passport arrived in USA and in Pakistan embassy there. I hope and wish that the visa will be organized fast and Joby will come here to begin the adventure soon...
Ciao

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Diran Peak 7266

19.06
Today we start. From Gilgit we will go by Jeep for 4/5 hours till the village of Bar where we will spend the night and organize the porters. Tomorrow we will start the trekking to approach Batura II throw Baltar Glacier. There is a lot of snow and this is the reason why I choose this approach and not the Muchuchil glacier valley. We in fact received advise from our staff, that porters wouldn't go there because it is longer and more difficult with deep snow. The risk is they left our equipment too far from the mountain. On the map you can see the purple points that indicate our trekking way. I hope to get the possibility to update the web site and give you information and photos also along the trekking (if batteries will work without to be charged anymore till base camp).
So everybody on board that the games are starting...
Simone

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